Category Archives: South West

Esperance Peak

Sitting between the easily accessible Mt Hartz and Adamsons Peak, Esperance Peak is rarely visited and doesn’t quite get the attention it deserves. I had gathered some information regarding access, but was unsure as to what we would encounter along the way.  We were surprised to find a recently taped and mostly cleared route all the way to the plateau.

The track begins along an old, overgrown forestry road which heads west for a few hundred meters before heading up into the forest. A steep climb ensues before entering a patch of cutting grass where the track makes use of a number of fallen logs. A small creek is crossed about 35 minutes in, which was the only source of water on the way up.  The initial crossing was dry, as the creek appeared to be running underground; but water was accessible a bit further up the track.

A number of fallen trees need to be crawled under before the forest opens up and the pandani start to appear. After ~2.4kms – or about 1hour 20 minutes – the gradient increases as you make your way up the steep and scrubby edge of the plateau. Suddenly the views opened up, and we spent some time checking out the geology on the northern rim before picking a clear line through the alpine scrub.  There were a number of small tarns on the southern side that were full of water, but looked like they would dry pretty quickly during the warmer months. We stumbled across a faint pad and followed it towards the northern ridge before heading southwest to the summit, as this pad avoids a scrubby section on the eastern slopes. Once on top, we were treated with uninterrupted views in all directions and had a longer than usual lunch, before making our way back the way we came. Just after dropping off the plateau, I made a small detour to check out the large cliffs just south of the track which can be seen on aerial imagery, and are only a few minutes from the track. We arrived back at the car in just over 2 hours.

All up 8.8kms in 5 1/2 hours with 740m ascent.

Getting there: Follow the Huon Highway past Dover until you reach the bridge over the Esperance River. Turn right onto Esperance River Road just before the bridge and follow it for 11.3kms until you reach Casey’s Road. Turn left and follow Casey’s Road for 5.1kms and turn right onto Casey Spur 7.  About 100m up there road there is a small carpark and the start of the old forestry road.

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Heading into the forest
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A section of cutting grass before the creek
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On the plateau looking towards Snowy and Hartz
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Nice tarns overlooking Adamsons and Mesa
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Esperance summit
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Looking south
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A lone pine
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Richea Scoparia starting to flower
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Looking towards the plateau on the way back down
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Wild flowers
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Back into the forest
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Large cliffs
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A very slippery log

 

Mt Hartz

A big dump of snow was forecast for the weekend and the chance to surpass 99 peak bagging points was very enticing. Mt Hartz seemed to be a good candidate as reaching the summit is fairly short and the track relatively easy to follow, even in heavy snow.  We were the first to arrive at the carpark and soon after made our way along the duckboards. The first 15m comprised of pushing through and ducking under snow laden branches covering the track, before reaching the open moors. Unfortunately not as much snow had fallen as I had hoped; though this was probably a good thing as it was very soft, even with snowshoes. A quick detour to Lake Esperance to check out the view was well worth it, though we couldn’t see as much as we’d like in the foggy conditions.

Once on Hartz Pass, we were hit with some very strong wind gusts and snowstorms, with pellets of ice belting us. Luckily there were a number of snow markers still visible, and we were able to follow them instead of relying solely on the GPS for navigation.  Up we went, trying to avoid the patches of softer snow covering the bushes.  We reached the top in just over 2 hours, but unfortunately couldn’t see more than 20m around us. Some protection from the wind could be found in the small rock windbreak where we had some snacks and a rest. Just as we were about to leave, the clouds cleared and we were able to see the Southern Ranges, Bob + Boomerang and the Picton Range.

The clearer conditions held up all the way back to Hartz Pass and made the descent much quicker, as well as more enjoyable with the occasional view of Hartz Lake, a frosty Devils Backbone and the occasional snow tornado whirling along the ridge. We were back at the car just after 12, which left plenty of time to check out something in the area that I had been keen to see for some time and to explore forestry roads.

All up 8.4kms in 3hours and 45 minutes with 518m ascent.

Getting there: The easiest way to access Hartz is by driving along the Arve Road from Geeveston. Follow all signs towards Tahune Airwalk and Hartz Mountain.

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GPS track
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Approaching the carpark
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The sun trying to shine through
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Lake Esperance
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Summit with no view
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Looking west towards the Boomerang
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The clouds clear
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On the way back down
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Hartz Lake
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Hartz Lake
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Devils Backbone
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Mt Hartz and Snowy
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Ladies Tarn
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Largest known flowering plant in the world

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The Needles (Maydena)

Having made good time climbing The Sentinels in the morning, we were keen to check out another spot on the way back home. The Needles were a good fit as it’s a quick scoot straight up, with some great views- so we stopped by the road at the Humboldt Divide and made our way up through the bush. The well-cleared track passed through patches of thick bush before climbing steeply through open terrain.  The large rock formations on the way up were impressive and provided a good vantage for checking out the surrounding peaks.  Unfortunately the cloud was thick on the southern side, and we had no view whatsoever of Mueller, Anne and friends.  The track levels off slightly before one last climb to the summit, home to a very large cairn, and was reached 40 minutes after leaving the carpark.  A great short walk with some impressive scenery.

All up 2.6kms in 1 hour and 18 minutes with 386m ascent.

Getting there: The track starts 16.5kms past Maydena on the Gordon River Road at the top of the Humboldt Divide. There is a decent carpark and a sign that says it is the highest point on the Gordon River Road and states the average annual rainfall. A small cairn on the opposite side of the road indicates the start of the track.

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GPS track
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Looking back towards Tim Shea
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Summit in view.
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Looking south at a rainbow
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The final climb
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Summit, looking east
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Nice rocky ridges

The Sentinel Range

The original plan of an overnight hike in the snow had unfortunately fallen through (due to there being no snow), and we were then left with a number of day walk options. After much deliberation, we decided it would be a good day to climb The Sentinel Range. We left Hobart early and made our way to the Wedge River Picnic Ground; intermittent rain and low lying cloud made up the majority of the drive along the Gordon River Road.  I had wondered whether the log crossing across the Wedge River would still be there given the amount of the rain over the previous few days- so the backup plan was to drive just past the bridge that crosses the Wedge River and cut up through the button grass to rejoin the track.  Thankfully we were able to cross with dry feet, even though our boots were almost entirely underwater.

From the plains we could see a few hundred metres up the range, before it disappeared in the cloud.  It was evident that it was a steep climb straight up to the ridge, and we wasted no time gaining elevation. Evidence of the bushfire from a few years ago was still all around, however the bright green shoots of new trees and bushes contrasted nicely with the charred ground.   The track is marked with a number of cairns and ribbons, and heads southeast after the first steep climb. A small creek is then traversed, which is likely to be the only constant source of water in the summer months, before climbing straight up along side a huge wall of rock.  The upside of the bushfire is that the view back towards the Gordon Dam is completely uninterrupted.  After 60 minutes we reached the ridge line, and had to have a quick rest after climbing 530m in just 1.4 kms.

The highpoint was still a bit further east, and the ever present cloud made the skinny ridge-line even more impressive. While the views south towards The Coronets and the Lake Pedder impoundment were infrequent, the occasional sight of a broken spectre was a nice surprise. Walking across the ridge was easy given the fire had cleared a lot of the scrub, and the southern side that was not affected showed what it would have been like up here in years past. We reached the summit 20 minutes after hitting the ridge and had some lunch looking over the lake.  On the way back down we a made a small detour to check out what I thought might be a number of waterfalls.  They turned out to be more like waterslides, so I took some photos then rejoined the track just up from the creek.

All up 4.1kms in 3hours and 7 minutes with 668m ascent.

Getting there:  Follow the Gordon River Road for 17.6kms past the Scotts Peak Road turnoff until you reach the Wedge River Picnic Ground. The track starts to the left of the old toilet block and crosses the Wedge River on a fallen log.

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GPS track
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Boggy button-grass plains
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New growth emerging from charred stems
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A creek emerges from beneath a boulder
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Looking back down the track to Lake Gordon
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The view when we reached the ridge
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Stuck in the cloud
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The Sentinel Range highpoint and a skinny ridgeline
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Clouds lift for a moment
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The southern side that was spared by the fire
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Looking west
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The first waterslide
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The second waterslide

 

Mt Chapman and Burgess Bluff

Well-over a month had passed since the previous walk in Tas, and we were keen to get some longer days in before attempting Ossa in a day.  Originally we were thinking about heading to Lake St Clair and climbing Rufus, Hugel and maybe Little Hugel, depending on the time; but we ended up canning that idea and sticking to something a bit closer to home.

We had attempted to summit Mt Chapman and Burgess Bluff on a very wet and windy day last winter (Mt Chapman and Burgess Bluff (almost) , but were forced to turn around at Square Tarn due to blizzard like conditions and a very high chance of walking back in the dark if we had kept going.  This day was a much more enjoyable 23 degrees, with light winds and barely any cloud cover, and I was keen to see what the area actually looked like.

We arrived at the the track just after 9:00am and left the car at 9:25am.  The start of the track follows an old logging track that is now overgrown with cutting grass and other small trees, before making its way into the bush after about 5 minutes.  From here, its basically straight up through the forest and over a bunch of fallen trees-but for the most part, it is easy to follow. Additionally, it looks as though someone has been through fairly recently and retagged the route with pink ribbon.  After about 50 minutes the forest starts to thin out and you can start to see Mt Picton across the valley.  This area is mainly heathland, with a track running through the middle. When we were here last in winter, that same track was basically a knee high creek and we were forced to wade through it;  this time there was a significantly less water, and apart from a few large bog holes we managed to stay relatively dry.  It is a bit scrubby through here though, so a long sleeve shirt and pants isn’t a bad idea-but it is over fairly quickly.

It was then onto the first plateau, where the scrub clears up and pad makes its way towards Square Tarn.  This is one of my favourite sections, as not only is it full of wild flowers but on one side you can see Mt Chapman and Mt Picton, while on the other side you can see Hartz, Esperance, Adamson’s and Bobs.  Large rock formations begin to appear, and the track takes you right along the side of one before reaching a small and hard to see junction.  We decided to head to Square Tarn to refill our drink bottles and have a quick snack; this was a good idea, as there was very little water for the rest of the walk apart from a few stagnant ponds on Abrotanella Rise.   Two hours had passed since we left the car and we now had to make our way up to the saddle.  I had heard that there was a faint pad that heads up from Square Tarn and rejoins the main track on the left hand side of Abrotanella Rise; we managed to find some sort of track but ended up having to scrub bash our way back across.  I would recommend back tracking to the junction and heading up from there to avoid any unnecessary scrub.

About halfway up, the track pretty much disappears and it’s up to you to find the easiest way up on the southern side. We reached the top of Abrotanella 40 minutes after leaving Square Tarn then headed south to climb Burgess Bluff first.  The walking here was easy and we were careful not to tread on the hundreds of flowers and cushion plants that dot the area.  I later found out that a number of the landmarks around here are named after the abundant flora that grow in the area; for example abrotanella is the genus of cushion plants, Pineapple Flat is named after Pineapple Grass (Astelia alpina) and Hewardia Ridge is named after the Tasmanian Purple Star (Isophysis tasmanica), which is also called Hewardia.

We first made our way across Anderson Bluff to avoid the scrub on the eastern side, then found a cairned route across to the summit of Burgess Bluff.  We had some lunch and took in the views of Mt Bobs and PB to the south and Federation Peak to the south west.  It was then back the way we came, and across Abrotanella Rise to the base of Mt Chapman.  We passed a number of nice spots to camp below the rocky scree on the southern face of Mt Chapman, but unfortunately there is almost no water near here in the dryer months and it would require carrying what you need up from Square Tarn.  We came across a cairned route about halfway up Chapman but overall it was an easy rock hop to the top.  Looking north-west from the summit you could see all the way up to The Thumbs and Mt Field West, but it was Mt Weld that really caught my eye.  On the way back down we bypassed Square Tarn and took the much quicker, direct route across the plateau.

All up: 19.2kms in a leisurely 8hours and 12 minutes with 1134m ascent and plenty of stops for photos.

Carpark to Square Tarn – 5.4kms in 2:20.

Square Tarn to Abrotanella Rise – 1.2kms in 36min.

Abrotanella Rise to Burgess Bluff (via Anderson Bluff) – 2.2kms in 53min.

Burgess Bluff to Mt Chapman – 3.2kms in 1:15.

Mt Chapman to Carpark – 7.1kms in 2:32

 

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GPS route.
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Christmas Bells everywhere as we leave the forest.
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Still some water on the track as we enter the heath.
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Mt Picton from across the valley.
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The scrubby section.
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Mt Chapman from the first plateau.
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Interesting rock formation.  The track passes right beside one of these.
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Looking back from where we came.
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Reflections on Square Tarn.
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Snack spot by Square Tarn.
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In the scrub after leaving Square tarn.
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Mt Chapman from Abrotanella Rise.
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Looking at Burgess Bluff, Mt Bobs and Precipitous Bluff from Anderson Bluff.
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Lunch on Burgess Bluff.  Federation Peak behind.
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Federation Peak.
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Heading back up Anderson Bluff, Lake Burgess behind.
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Cushion plants on Abrotanella Rise.
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Mt Chapman.

 

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Nice camp spots below Mt Chapman, but no fresh water nearby.
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Looking back at Anderson Bluff and Burgess Bluff from Mt Chapman.
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A wedgie joins us on the summit.
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Tasmanian Purple Star (Hewardia) – Isophysis tasmanica
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Lake Burgess.

 

Mt Mueller

Mt Mueller; 1245m; Abel# 87

I had read mixed reviews about this walk, but it turned out to be up there with one of the best day walks I’ve done recently.  Maybe that was due to the fact it was sunny and we did not require head-to-toe wet weather gear; after the last few peaks, I had almost forgotten what it was like to walk in good weather.

After spending the night at the Edgar Campground on the Scotts Peak Dam Road, we made our way back east to climb Mt Mueller.  We arrived at the carpark around 8am and were ready to head off at quarter past.  Initially the track is a bit boggy and pretty overgrown.  This only lasts for about 20 minutes, and before long the old bulldozer track opens up and makes for some nice walking.  Once you can see Fossil Lake you need to keep an eye out for a cairned route on the right hand side that takes you down to the lake.  Almost 1 hour later we had reached Fossil Lake, where we had a short break and refilled our water bottles.  Note that this is probably the last place to get easily accessible fresh water, especially in the warmer months.  The track continues from the North Western side of the lake and makes it up towards the peak above.  There were still a few large snow drifts left over from the heavy dumps a week or so ago.   We reached the top of the ridge 40 minutes later, then made our way across the top towards the summit of Mt Mueller.

Towards the south, low level clouds had blocked our view of any of the nearby peaks, with the exception of the very tip of Mt Anne.  This was not the case on the northern side of the ridge, as we could see all the way up the Gordon Valley.  The ridge line then drops down to the saddle before heading up one last time to reach the true highpoint.  We reached the top 2 hours and 45 minutes after leaving the carpark, then spent the next 45minutes eating lunch and taking in the view.  Luckily the cloud to the south had passed and we could now see all the way down to Federation and PB.  Luckily the wind had dropped and we were able to check out some of the more exposed rock ledges around the summit.  We then made our way back to the Fossil Lake and down to the car.

All up 12.1kms in 5hours and 45 minutes with about an hour and a half worth of stops.  1336m ascent.

Getting there: Follow directions towards Mt Field National Park and continue past Maydena. Take the right turn onto Florentine Road then about 100m take another right onto Styx Road (direction Big Styx Reserve).  Follow this road for a few kilometres until you reach Mueller Road.  The gate across the road should be open from this end but not from the Scotts Peak Dam Road end.  Drive along Mueller Road for 4.8kms and take a right down an unnamed spur road.  Follow this spur road and take the first left.  A few hundred metres up there will be a car park on the left and the track begins 20m further up the road, as indicated by some orange tape.

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Heading to Fossil lake.  The eastern summit of Mt Mueller.
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Fossil Lake.
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The name checks out.
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Another angle.
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Large snow drifts.
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Mt Mueller summit from the ridge.
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Our view south.  Mt Anne poking out.
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The needles on the right.  The Thumbs and Reeds Peak centre left and Wylds Craig far right.
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The saddle to the true highpoint.
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The Needles and Tim Shea.  Mt Field West on the right.
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Looking south from the summit.
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Looking back from where we came.
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Looking south, Anne still has some snow.  Federation and PB out the back on the left.
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Looking towards the Gordon Dan from halfway up the saddle.
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Fossil Lake from above.

 

Mt Riveaux

It was Sunday and our first mountain in “Spring”;  showers were forecast, as well as possible snow around 1200m.  We had decided to do Mt Riveaux as it was only around 845m in elevation and had been on the to-do list for a while.  There wasn’t that much information on this walk, but we were expecting to reach a locked gate and then have a ~3km road walk followed by a decent climb, which would take around 3 hours to get to the top.

After a few stops in Huonville and Geeveston we eventually made our way to the start of the track on Riveaux Road,  where we reached the gate and I decided to check to see if it was actually locked.  Luckily it wasn’t, which meant that we could drive almost all the way to start of the track and avoid the annoying road walk.  Unfortunately, there were a number of small trees across the road and they took some time to move so that we could drive under, over or around them.  We also wasted some time wandering around the bush where we saw some pink ribbons, thinking it was the start of the Mt Riveaux Track. As it turned out, the ribbons led nowhere so we continued driving down the road until we reached another gate, which was definitely locked.  It didn’t matter however, as the actual start of the Mt Riveaux track was only 50m past the gate on the left hand side.

The first part climbs steeply through some very nice rainforest full of large man-ferns, lichen and moss covered sassafras trees.  The gradient then lessens and the forests opens up;  there is no defined track for the majority of this walk, just a decent number of ribbons guide the way.  In saying that, we did find ourselves searching for the next ribbon a few times, especially in the areas where a lot of trees have come down-which can be said for most of the track.  Forty-five minutes in and we were completely soaked; the rain wasn’t heavy but it was consistent, and the constant brushing up against wet bushes and fallen logs didn’t give us much chance to stay dry.  Emily decided to try and walk over the slipperiest looking log in the entire Southwest NP and ended up slipping sideways-unfortunately I didn’t get to see the fall, but I did manage to get a photo of how she landed before she picked herself up as if nothing had happened.

As you get closer to the top, the bauera takes over and makes it a bit harder to find the correct path.   The last section before the summit is a pretty fun zig zag between large boulders, as well as a couple of short climbs up a short rocky face. Exactly 2 and a half hours after leaving the car, we popped out of the top and were confronted with some very strong winds which almost blew the beanie right off my head.  We spent the next 15 minutes layering up and taking some photos, before heading straight back down to the car which we reached after 2 hours and 5 minutes .

This was definitely not the longest or steepest day walk we have done, but it was probably the most annoying.  There are a lot of fallen trees and slippery slopes that make it seem like you are constantly stepping over or crawling under something.

All up 7.1kms in 5 hours including some short breaks, and 682m ascent.

Getting there:  Follow the Arve Road out towards the Tahune Airwalk.  Just before the Airwalk, take the left onto Picton Road and stay right at the fork.  Cross the bridge over the Picton River and take the second right onto Riveaux Road (the first right takes you to the Huon/YoYo Track).  Follow Riveaux Road until you reach a boom gate; either park your car here, or if it’s unlocked continue along this road for a couple of kms without taking any of the side roads.  You will eventually reach a second gate and what is basically the end of the road.  Continue past the gate for about 50m and you will see a bunch of ribbons indicating the start of the track

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GPS track of the walk.
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The beginning of the track.
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Large man ferns on the way up.
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Emily racing up the hill.
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“Having a rest”
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A bit of bog before the bauera.
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Popping out near the summit.
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Looking towards Red Rag Scarp and Blakes Opening
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View from the summit.
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A rainbow appears as we drop back down into the forest.