A couple of Emily’s friends from Sydney were spending a few days in the north of the state, and were keen to meet up for a walk; Quamby Bluff seemed a good fit as it is well tracked and relatively short. The walk starts on old farm land just off the Lakes Highway. Once in the forest, a nice patch of large tea trees is traversed before reaching a section of scree. At the top of the scree field you enter a moss covered myrtle forest which was completely unexpected, but reminded me of the beech forests we walked through on the way to Green Lake Hut. From here, the track climbs steadily before emerging at a saddle on the southern end of the bluff. Good views of the Meander Valley and the Western Tiers can be found from here. Before reaching the flat top of Quamby, there is another small rock scree to climb up, offering more views of valleys on either side. A quick walk across the top gets you to the trig point and the summit, where we had lunch in a sheltered rocky nook out of the wind.
All up – 7kms in 3 hours and 55 minutes with 518m ascent
Getting there: The start of the track is well marked and can be easily seen on the Highland Lakes Road (A5) at this location. Additional parking can be found ~100 meters down the road.
It was the Queen’s birthday long weekend and we were setting out on our first walk with the Pandani Walking Club. The walk was a 2 nighter visiting huts along the Western Tiers, and the summits of Forty Lake Peak and Ironstone Mountain. The proposed plan was to walk up the Higgs Track to Lady Lake Hut on day 1, where we would set up camp and spend the night. For day 2 we would walk to the hut next to Lake Nameless, drop our packs and head to Forty Lakes Peak before returning to the hut. On the final day we would head off track towards Lake Ironstone, and then climb up Ironstone Mountain before returning to the cars via the Western Creek Track.
Day 1:Higgs Track to Lady Lake.
We left Hobart just before 8 so that we could meet up with the others in Deloraine. We met AB and Jane at the Deli in Deloraine to grab a quick coffee before heading off to the start of the Higgs Track. Along the way we met John and continued along the back roads of the Meander Valley and finally on to forestry roads to reach the car park (directions at the bottom of the page). Given that we were walking out via a different route a few clicks up the road, we did a quick car shuttle to leave one car at the end of the Western Creek Track. After a quick bite to eat and a final pack check we were ready to head off.
We were spoilt with the weather, with plenty of blue sky and almost no wind. The Higgs Track starts off reasonably flat but then quickly begins to climb up towards the Great Western Tiers. Some sections are fairly steep, but overall it is a pretty pleasant climb through old forests. The restoration of the track back in 2014 using ancient Scottish stone-pitching techniques provides a nice level surface to walk on, even when the gradient begins to increase. Sections of rock wall-presumably used as a retaining wall-are also quite impressive and make for a good photo. Once you pop out on top you can see the Lady Lake Hut about 150m in front of you. This open section is quite boggy but a few strategically placed logs make crossing the small and particularly deep ponds very easy. To our surprise there was no one at the hut, which meant we had first choice on where we would camp. We chose a slightly elevated section of ground between the hut and the toilet (which I’m told has a fantastic view) and got to work unpacking all of our gear. We wandered around the area for some time taking photos of Lady Lake, which can’t be seen from the hut but is only a 2 minute walk away; surprisingly, some of the smaller ponds still had ice in them. When we returned we met a young girl and her mum who had just walked up the Higgs Track and were planning to spend a couple of nights sleeping in the Lady Lake Hut.
Not long after we spotted another couple of people popping up over the horizon; this was likely to be Simon and Jess who had decided to join us last-minute as their kayaking trip looked in doubt due to large rainfall forecast for the South West. As the sun began to set I positioned my camera next to a small pond and a King Billy Pine in order to catch some colour changes of the sky. I was not disappointed.
We only had a short walk on day 1 – 2.9kms in 2 hours with a 524m ascent. It was nice to have some time to relax and look around, as normally we push to walk as far as possible without time to pitch the tent and relax for a few hours.
Day 2: Walking to Lake Nameless and Forty Lakes Peak.
I set the alarm at 7am to catch the sunrise. I had woken up earlier that morning when Emily had to go to the toilet, and I could hear the frost cracking under her feet. She said that everything was white and spent a bit of time walking around under the bright light of the full moon. I was hoping that it would still be white when I got out but that was no longer the case. The weather that morning was a big step down from the day before, as mist had settled in and it looked like there were going to be a couple of showers. We had some breakfast and packed up our damp tents and followed a taped/cairned route out behind where our tents were towards Lake Nameless. After a short climb we reached the top of a small hill and caught sight of a number of lakes, unfortunately the low-lying cloud had obscured our vision of any nearby peaks. The pad was easy to follow with a number of ribbons and cairns to mark the way. We passed a number of lakes, including Weston’s Lake and Lake Lucy Long, before we reached the northern end of Lake Nameless. As we walked down the western side of the lake, we caught a glimpse of Mt Ironstone in the distance and that of the much closer Forty Lakes Peak perched behind the Lake Nameless Hut. By this stage it had been raining on and off and the constant mist had effectively dampened our clothes and packs.
We arrived at the hut after 2 hours and 40 minutes and covered 6.6kms with a 200m ascent. During trout season this hut gets used regularly by fishermen and is home to a very nice Tassie Barrel wood heater, but unfortunately the last people there had burnt all the wood so we had to go and find our own. We managed to find a fair bit of dry timber in the vicinity, enough to get the fire lit and to start warming up the hut. The Lake Nameless hut appears much older that the Lady Lake Hut and is significantly colder and darker. A brief pause in the rain allowed myself and AB to set up our tents on the limited flat ground surrounding the hut while John, Simon and Jess decided to sleep in the hut instead. With plenty of light left in the day we decided to go up to Forty Lakes Peak, then walk down the south-eastern side to try to find some old cairns that mark the Ritter’s Track. The walk up to Forty Lakes Peak follows a cairned pad past the toilet about 50m to the east of the hut and up through some scrub and snow gum forest. About 20 minutes later we had reached the peak.
We descended on the south-eastern side to look for the 100-year-old cairns that mark the Ritter’s Track. The Ritters Track is a 100-year-old stock route originally used by a Meander Valley farmer called Charles Ritter who used to drive cattle to the Walls of Jerusalem, more information can be found here.
We eventually found a number of very old-looking cairns that were covered in lichen, unfortunately I didn’t take a photo of any but I’m sure they will still be there the next time I’m in the area. Our last night was spent in the hut back at Lake Nameless where we ate dinner and dessert, as well as some delicious custard prepared by Jane.
Day 2: 10.8kms in 6 hours in 15 minutes including breaks and only 399m ascent.
Day 3: Ironstone Mountain and the Western Creek Trail
Today was going to be a long day so we set our alarm for 6:30 and had all of our bags packed to leave at 8. The sunrise that morning was very special. We headed east along the lake and made our way towards Ironstone Mountain. The next few hours of walking were all off track but navigating was easy due to the large open spaces. We eventually reached Lake Ironstone and proceeded to walk around the western side until we reached a pad leading up the saddle to Ironstone. There were a number of scattered cairns on the way up but for the most part we made our own way through some scrub and over small boulder fields.
The summit of Ironstone is marked by a trig that John had painted about 10 years earlier. However, the last time he arrived by helicopter. The lack of cloud provided a full 360 degree view of the Walls of Jerusalem in the south-west, Ben Lomond NP to the east, the Meander valley and Mother Cummins to the north-east and Mt Roland towards the north-west. We shared a few lollies and chocolate then returned to where we had left our packs. The trip up from the northern end of Lake Ironstone took a little over 2 hours with a couple of breaks along the way.
We had our final lunch of the trip next to the lake then proceeded to head north to find Whiteley’s Hut and the Western Creek Track. This didn’t prove too difficult and before long we were following a pad down to the hut. From here the view back towards Ironstone are pretty impressive. Whiteley’s Hut is a small but seemingly cosy hut that has a good wood heater and room for ~4 people. There were a couple of people camped there who, unfortunately had decided to bring their dogs into the world heritage area.
The rest of the walk follows the beautiful Western Creek Track down the gully. There are countless waterfalls and rock pools almost all of the way down. Compared to the Higgs Track on day 1 this is considerably more undulating, and also has a water crossing sections that would prove difficult following heavy rain. I would not hesitate to come back here though as it is truly an amazing walk.
We arrived at the carpark and thanks to a car shuffle a few days earlier we were able to drive a couple of km down the road to the Higgs Track carpark and pick up the rest of the vehicles. That brought an end to a very enjoyable weekend away and our first walk with Pandani was a success. Big thanks to AB, Jane, John, Simon and Jess and we hope to catch up again soon.
Day 3: 12.5kms in 7 hours and 20 minutes, 338m ascent and 803m descent.